Wednesday, 22 May 2024. We knew that the ferry from Porto Torres to Ajaccio sailed on Wednesdays, so in the morning, we checked out of our apartment and rode to the Stazione Marittima (passenger terminal) to buy our tickets. The agent at the ticket window told us to muster at the Aragonese Tower an hour before sailing. 
As in Naples, we found that being on bicycles made ferry travel easier. The police at the gate subjected the cars to a full search, including using a mirror underneath the vehicle, but they waved us through with the pedestrians.
Mega Regina was one of the enormous ferries of the Corsica Line. At 37,000 tons displacement, she was bigger than any ship in which I had ever served. Although the weather forecast had not been promising, in fact it was a pleasant crossing. There was plenty of daylight left when we checked into the Kalliste Hotel that evening.
In a world where bicycle tourists must always worry about where to park their bikes safely at night, the Kalliste was paradise. The staff showed us a large courtyard where they stored building materials, impossible to reach without passing reception.
Cheryl had been mulling how to show me as much of the island as possible, yet still meet her goal of being back on the mainland by the end of May, when the summer tourists would flood the campgrounds and accommodations. Already we had noticed the thousands of camper vans on the roads in Sardinia. She asked about renting a car. That night, I booked a Peugeot 208 for a week. Looking back, I regret not having challenged myself on the steep mountains, and technically, the island was a bicycle tour only in Ajaccio. However, what I saw and the experiences that Cheryl shared with me move me to include the island in this account.
On the 23rd, I got a good deal on the car, although the EUR1400 pre-authorization on my credit card to cover damages made me nervous. The hotel staff at the Kalliste generously offered to store our bikes in their courtyard until we returned.
The stunning beauty of Corsica came to me only in glimpses as I drove the narrow, twisting roads of the mountainous island. We followed the D86 and D81 northeast until we found a campground near the train line between Ajaccio and Bastia. There were so few trains on the line that they were no bother. The occasional mosquito posed a more pressing problem.
Friday the 24th, we went to Calvi on the west coast, on a level, smooth road that followed the 800-metre contour line. The signs marked it as the east-west bike route (GC-20), obviously a rail-trail that stretched across the entire island. The smoother drive allowed me to take in the ridges of the sharper mountains across the valley.
Calvi has a rich history dating back to prehistory, including being the hometown of Corsica’s most famous native son, Napoleon Bonaparte. We spent some time walking the medieval historic center, then drove to La Dolce Vita campground near the city, after rejecting two other campgrounds as unsuitable. Boasting a playground, pool, and restaurant, and sitting close to the main rail line from Ajaccio, La Dolce Vita hardly felt like camping. Having one of the few tents would become normal for us on this tour.
From Calvi we returned to the inland mountains. Cheryl had fond memories of Aullène and the Hotel de la Poste. The place had been freshly painted, with new features added. Dinner was excellent, so it did not surprise me that the locals drove there from miles away to eat.
The next three days we spent near the south coast, camping among the olive trees in Sartène, Viggianello, and Porticcio. I especially enjoyed Porto Vecchio with its bicycle-friendly waterfront, and Propriano, which boasted a working waterfront. Both towns offer pleasant alternatives to Bonifacio, the better-known port for ferries from Sardinia.
On Thursday, the 30th of May, we planned our departure from Porticcio carefully. I drove to Ajaccio and left Cheryl at the Kalliste Hotel after we moved our bags and bikes to the doorway nearby. While she watched our things, I returned the car to the airport. A scratch on the right rear rim cost me a damage fee, but it was less than their collision insurance and cleared the hold on my card.
Back in Ajaccio, we checked out the festival in the main square and shopped in an old-fashioned bookstore. Then we rolled to the ferry port and boarded the night ferry to Toulon.
My tour of the big islands (Isole Grandi) ended as the big ship plowed into a 40-knot headwind and gathering clouds. The rest of this summer tour would feature the continent. Cheryl had accomplished her mission to show me Sardinia, the interior of Sicily, and the rugged mountains of Corsica, which she had enjoyed so many times. She had much more to show me in the coming weeks. All y’all come back.
Smooth roads & tailwinds,
JT
© 2024, JT Hine
The Freewheeling Freelancer 